New oars, 2 coats of epoxy and eight of varnish, with leathers and turks head buttons.

January 7, 2016 marked our most recent arrival in San Carlos, Sonora Mexico, which has become a place which feels strangely like coming home. As soon as we got the ladder up the side of Pelican Moon, we were hailed by people we had met two years ago. Soon after, we found that other sailors we are friends with were also in port. San Carlos is the kind of place where, if you are there during certain seasons, you are certain to reunite with old friends, and make new ones as well.

As always, we were naively enthusiastic about spending only a few days in the yard, thinking we had just a few projects in addition to sanding and painting the bottom. But, also as always, one project completed revealed another one needing to be done, and we didn’t escape the yard for two weeks. In a now-familiar routine, we spent our time hunting boat parts, wandering around Guaymas provisioning and having boat parts custom-made, installing those boat parts, hiking, enjoying morning coffee with pastries at Barracuda Bob’s, and in a new twist, staying warm at night!

Finally, we splashed early on a windless morning with a smooooth bottom, sparkling new hand-shaped and finished oars, minor electric work completed, boat interior scrubbed and oiled, rig tensioned, new butterfly hatch hardware custom made and installed, and a host of other small but time-consuming tasks completed which, two months later, I cannot seem to recall without consulting our maintainance log. It’s mostly a good thing, not remembering all that time spent working. It makes us feel as though we spend most of our time having fun going on adventures.

Bahia San Pedro

After blowing about in the San Carlos anchorage for a week or so, we finally got a break in the northerlies and were able to get out for a five day shakedown trip to Bahia San Pedro, one of our favorite places. We motor-bashed against 18 knot winds on the nose accompanied by 4-6 foot swells-a good shakedown for the engine and chainplate seals. We dropped anchor without a hitch, and settled down for some great hiking and fishing.

On the third day we were awakened by the last boat leaving the anchorage, and the bahia was ours alone for the rest of our trip! We had two meals of fresh triggerfish ceviche, and then held on for a fast downwind sleigh ride back to San Carlos.

Returning to San Carlos from Bahia San Pedro, Tetakawi under foresail.

Continuing strong northerlies kept us in town for yet another week or so, which allowed us to attend the Carnival parade in downtown Guaymas with a group of friends, fellow sailors we have met here and there over the past three seasons. Before the parade began, the streets were packed with roaming bands, vendors of every kind, and people promenading. Finally, the main event got started with 20 minutes of motorcycle stunt riders, and then came the floats, bands and dancers. Wow, the dancing and shaking went on for at least five hours, and we couldn’t last until the end. It was incredible. 

Finally, on February 7, a full month from when we first arrived in the boatyard and pulled Pelican Moon from dry storage, we hauled anchor and set sail on a southerly course, the morning sun shining bright on the sails of Pelican Moon and Ahmeek, our buddy boat going the same way as we. Next port: Bahia Altata, a small shrimp fishing town at the end of a ten-mile long lagoon with a bar crossing, a new destination to all of us, and one that is far off the main cruising routes. Looking forward to the predicted calm seas, steady breezes and a newly full moon, we turned our backs to San Carlos for what is probably the last time. A bit of melancholy mixed with anticipation shadowed our thoughts, and we spent some time talking about all the remarkable people we had met during our time there over the last three years. The sailing life is all about creating a series of places to call home, and leaving home will always be bittersweet.